A Japanese skincare routine, step by step
A Japanese routine is less about doing more and more about doing each step gently. The idea is to cleanse without stripping the skin, then add hydration in thin layers, then seal it in. Most routines fit into five or six steps, and several of them can be skipped on a busy day.
1. Remove make-up and sunscreen
If you wore make-up or a water-resistant sunscreen, start with a cleansing oil, balm or milk. It dissolves what water alone leaves behind. Massage it on dry skin, add a little water to emulsify, then rinse.
2. Wash with a gentle cleanser
A foam or cream cleanser removes sweat, sebum and the remains of the first cleanse. Lather it in your hands first, so the foam does the work and you do not need to rub. Use lukewarm water: hot water dries the skin out.
3. Lotion
The Japanese lotion (keshōsui) is not an astringent toner. It is a watery layer of hydration. Pat it into damp skin with clean hands, and repeat once or twice if your skin feels thirsty. This step is the heart of the routine.
4. Essence, serum or emulsion
Choose one or two treatments for what your skin needs right now: a lightweight essence for hydration, a serum for a specific concern, or a milky emulsion for softness. Apply the thinnest texture first.
5. Moisturiser
A cream or gel cream seals the layers underneath. In summer a light gel is enough; in winter use a richer cream, especially at night.
6. Sunscreen in the morning
Daily sunscreen is the step Japanese routines never skip. Apply a generous amount as the last step, and top it up through the day. Our guide to SPF and PA ratings explains what the numbers mean.
Keep it simple
- Introduce one new product at a time and wait a week or two before adding another.
- Pat, do not rub. Skin that is handled gently stays calmer.
- Test a new product on a small area first, especially if your skin is sensitive.
